OK, so here comes another update and a lo-fi sneak peak on the light streaming capability. Light streaming is basically sampling light from a running video (or the phone camera), amplifying it and blasting it out.
We have been working like dogs for what feels like ages now. If it was easy, they wouldn’t call it hardware. But we are are getting very close to manufacturability. The major issues are sorted and I hope we can announce some definitive dates soon.
I had some really nasty bugs to work out the last couple of weeks, but things are looking better now.
I’ve uploaded a brief video showing some basic functionality plus a very nifty feature for making light samples or recordings. The device can record changes in light intensity and color, store it and play it back.
The idea is that you can record, edit, play back and loop light sequences. The wavery light from a camp fire, hard strobes, flickering neon tube light etc.
The video also shows some basic functionality like:
Power adjustable over 6 stops.
Full steps, half steps, thirds and tenths of a step. Or straight dimming.
Color temperature adjustable from 1850 to 15000.
It is worth noting that the output is stable over the entire range of color temperatures. The intensity does not vary when you adjust the color temperature. And vice versa, the color temperature does not vary when you adjust the intensity. (Well, it does in the video, as the device is not fully calibrated yet! :-))
Light of any color. The gamut? I guess it is easier to think about if I relate it to a known color space. Roughly speaking you can say that the gamut is a fair bit larger than sRGB, about the size of AdobeRGB.
Sorry about the shoddy video quality! Thinking I’d make it easy for myself I used an old Canon XM-1 camera, but it kept shifting to anamorphic on me. Should I keep trying top fix that with the unwilling video editing software, or should I get back to development? Hmmm.
Anyway, what do you think about the ability to record, edit, play back and loop light?
(If you are in a RSS reader and can’t see the video, you have to click trough to the site.)
So we’ve been working on the core feature set for the prototype. There is a lot of ideas floating around, even some good ones(!), that we will work into the product down the road. But first things first.
You have probably seen tennis players getting ready for the serve. They are out there on the field, rocking slowly back and forth, staring intently on their racket, and pulling the strings with their fingers. Do you know what that string pulling is? That is called focus. Unfortunately I don’t use tennis rackets when designing products but I have a post-it note on my screen that says “Focus goddammit!”. That also works.
So counting out all the nice-to-haves for now, what are the really, really basic features we need to focus on?
A lot of light. Seems obvious enough, but then again… The thing is, that light output is the mother of all trade offs. When you increase the output you also increase the price, the power requirements, the size, and the heat. Camera sensors have become a lot less noisy and need less light. I often find that I can’t stop the light down far enough. I actually don’t think that maximum light output should be the primary design driver. In any case, it is worth exploring what other cool things we can do if we lower the lumen requirements.
Constant light and flash. All new DSLR cameras record video. If you don’t do video now, sooner or later you will. Maybe a little, maybe a lot, but you will. You are not going to lug around two different sets of lights are you? You want some lights that can be used as a constant light source. And even if you primarily shoot stills, it would be nice to have a modeling light.
Multiple trigger options. Hotshoe, optical and sync port.
Mounting. The thing needs a 1/4″-20 standard issue tripod mount. Does it actually need a hotshoe at all? The hotshoe is not used very often, is it? I’m thinking that the hotshoe could be an accessory. But it would be nice if it could stand on its own. If there is some convenient surface to put it down on, that might save you from pulling out the light stand at all times.
Color temperature. This is a biggie. Photographic lights need adjustable color temperature. The range? 2500 to 7000 Kelvin is a minimum.
Built in filters. If the color temperature can change, we can build in electronic filters. Add 1/2 CTO with the touch of a button. Or CTB, Plusgreen, whatever you need.
Power efficient. Batteries should last long.
Agree, disagree? We’d love to hear from you in the comments or by email.